My Happy Place
By the time I was in my teens, my vision of paradise was The Perfect English Village. I had an image of this in my mind long before I actually saw one. I spent most of the summer I turned 14 reading Agatha Christie, and the images of Miss Marple’s Saint Mary Mead were at least as compelling as the murder plots. I could see the cottages made of Cotswold stone, which as J.B. Priestly said, “...has no color that can be described. Even when the sun is obscured and the light is cold, these walls are still faintly warm and luminous, as if they knew the trick of keeping the lost sunlight of centuries glimmering about them.” All these cottages were adorned with carefully tended flowers, and commerce was limited to small shops: bakeries, butchers, places to buy wool for knitting.
And then there were the “virtues, values, and customs” of village life, so perfectly depicted by Christie: People dropping in to visit and gossip, tea or sherry served, rations stretched, garden produce exchanged, the occasional black market item hidden [she mostly wrote about the years before and after World War II], and, of course churchgoing. And these virtues, values, and customs existed against a backdrop of leisure, seemingly for people of all classes, “unless you were a doctor, a vicar, or a servant.”*
These were also the virtues and values that I saw in Brooklyn Heights growing up. It was, in essence, a small, walkable village, with only one commercial street, and that lined with small shops. The pace of life was slow, partly because of the large number of stay-at-home mothers, quasi-bohemians living (albeit elegantly) from hand to mouth, and single women employed in low-stress secretarial or editorial jobs. Neighbors were neighborly.
My mother, despite her “modernism” (alluded to in earlier writings†) embodied these “village virtues”. She visited the sick, brought needed items to the poor, invited lonely people to dinner. She made a point of knowing all her neighbors.
Now, over 60 years later, I think and speak of myself as having grown up in “New York”, but Brooklyn Heights was really quite different. Subway stations were at the periphery, and the Heights was spared the hustle and bustle ensuing from people pushing and shoving their way back and forth to work.
Perhaps my bond with English villages grew out of happy childhood memories.
At the age of 34, after scrimping and saving from my meager Editorial Assistant’s salary for about two years, I managed to amass $2000 (not an insignificant sum in 1984 and enough for a nice vacation) and decided to take my partner Betty to England for her 50th birthday. I did not do this to be generous, and in fact when people praised me, I felt uncomfortable. I did it because I had yearned to go to England since I was young and I didn’t want to go alone. I was working and she wasn’t, so she paid in labor for at least some of her airfare and bed and board by looking through the mountain of catalogues we had picked up at the British Tourist Authority, as well as through the book on English villages that we had bought, and coming up with some ideas for our trip.
There were so many choices of tours, and so many were associated with beloved authors! James Herriot’s Yorkshire; Beatrix Potter’s Lake District; Bronte Country; Bath, where Jane Austen’s heroines spent a “season”. And of course Scotland with its magnificent lochs and highlands. As we had to budget sparingly we had to narrow things down. Eventually we decided on an informal tour of “Constable Country” (with a car and driver) and a three day coach tour of the Scottish Highlands. We could bracket our trip with a few days in London at each end. And then, spontaneously, we added one more gem. Betty mentioned the fact that as I would be spending vacation days and vacation money on this trip, we wouldn’t be going to the seaside anywhere that year. So she found a wonderful little seaside town in Norfolk called Cromer so that we could have a bit of seaside in England! We could travel there on the train after our Constable tour on our way to Scotland. The 10 day vacation plan was now complete.
As soon as we got onto a coach at Heathrow Airport, making our way to our hotel, I saw that everything was every bit as wonderful as I had dreamed it would be! I don’t remember that much about our time in London but the two things that stand out were seeing the Dickens museum and eating in the tea shop on the ground floor of the Victoria Thistle, our hotel. Probably if I could take one hour of my life and save it forever it would be our time having lunch in that tea shop. Everything was dusty rose or Wedgwood blue; the curtains were heavy and the walls were wainscoted. The menu was totally Miss Marple: tiny sandwiches with the crusts cut off, served on Spode. For the hour we were there, stress of all kinds just evaporated. There was no work, no money worries (which we did have plenty of on that trip; I was too poor to have a credit card – banks were much fussier then about whom they would give them to – and so I was eking out Travelers Checks), no housework. We just sat there, nicely dressed in slacks, tailored shirts, and blazers, sipping tea and looking out the windows, chatting about what we had seen and what we looked forward to seeing, like two characters in a pre-1960s English novel.
Our tour of Constable Country was a feast for the eyes. We saw all of the places he had painted: Willy Lott’s cottage, the River Stour, with boats moored; Dedham Village; Lavenham; Kersey, where people gave the right of way to ducks; Long Melford. And they had hardly changed at all in the ensuing century! I don’t remember where we stayed overnight but it might have been The Swan in Lavenham.
Cromer was the biggest surprise. Not just the seaside, with buildings of a kind of stone I’d never seen anywhere before or since, but the large rectory turned B&B where we slept (it was freezing) where we met a number of other paying guests. Here we met a young couple (at the time Betty was 50, I was 34; this couple was in their late 20s) who would remain friends and traveling companions of ours for several decades. The woman, Rhona, looked like she had stepped out of the pages of an Agatha Christie novel set in the 1940s. She had on a skirt and heels, even for a walk at the seaside, which, having spent most of my social life since the late 60s with a slovenly casual crowd, I found quite charming. She worked for a jeweler but dreamed of being the “manageress” at a store (which she eventually became). Kevin, the man, looked like Paul McCartney and loved cameras. In the most natural way in the world (and remember, this was before New York City even had a gay rights bill!) we split up as regular married couples might have, with Betty talking to Kevin about cameras and maps and me talking to Rhona about hairstyles and makeup.
One afternoon they took us for a drive throughout Norfolk and we stopped at King’s Lynn, a seaside town where they eventually moved. (We visited them there a few years later.) As we were driving Rhona confided to us that she was so happy we had all met. She said that most of the guests at the B&B (where they had been for about a week when we arrived) were old, reactionary, and stuffy. She said she was thrilled to meet people with whom they could have fun.
Then it was on to Scotland. Betty and I took a train to Edinburgh, stayed for a night in the North British Hotel (which had the largest bathtub either of us had ever seen), went to some museums the following morning, and then caught the train to Inverness where we would meet our coach tour. I will have to say that the Scottish Highlands are the most magnificent bit of “nature” that I have ever seen. Mountains that are one minute green, the next purple, and the next dark and cratered like shots of the moon. You can drive for miles and miles in the highlands and see nothing but the tiniest crofters’ cottage and sheep. No people to speak of. We saw the deepest lakes, including Loch Ness. Shops near Loch Ness had turned “Nessie” (the imaginary monster who was said to live at the bottom of the Loch) into an entire industry. There were Nessie tea towels, stuffed toys, and of course T shirts. We saw the battlefields at Culloden and felt our hearts leap into our mouths as we crossed the swinging rope bridge (on foot) at Fort William. The tour ended at the magnificent Inverewe Gardens, after which we turned around, went back to Edinburgh, hopped on a train, and spent one last night in London.
We went back to England several more times after that. The last new village we stayed in was Clovelly in Devon. The streets were cobblestone and to get to the water you had to walk down a steep incline. This was in 2004 and by that time Betty was not mobile enough for the trek so she stayed in the coach while I explored the town. That is the last time to date that I have been out of the country.
Since I left my last full time job in 2009 I have not had the money to travel and Betty is now bedbound (see some of my earlier writings about Betty‡), but we still vicariously enjoy time in an English village, most recently by watching the great British actress Penelope Keith’s program “Hidden Villages”. We watch an episode and then snuggle and reminisce about our happy times.
[*From Marion Shaw and Sabine Vanacker, in their book Reflecting on Miss Marple.
†See “A Modern Child in the 1950s https://babydramatic-1950.dreamwidth.org/2099.html
‡See “Inkling” https://babydramatic-1950.dreamwidth.org/4478.html]